Cincinnati Goetta

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 cups steel-cut (pinhead) oats
• 5 cups water
• 3 cups beef stock
• 2 tsp kosher salt
• 1 lb ground pork shoulder
• 1 lb ground beef chuck
• 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 3 bay leaves
• 2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 tsp dried marjoram
• 1 tsp ground allspice
• 1/2 tsp dried thyme
• 1/4 tsp ground cloves
• 3 tbsp bacon drippings or vegetable oil, for frying

Before you cook

• Chop the onions finely and mince the garlic.
• Line two 8-by-4-inch loaf pans with plastic wrap, leaving generous overhang on the long sides.

Steps

1. Combine the steel-cut oats, water, beef stock, salt and bay leaves in a large heavy pot.
2. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring once.
3. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes so the oats do not scorch on the bottom.
4. Uncover and add the ground pork, ground beef, onions and garlic.
5. Break the meat apart into the oats with a sturdy wooden spoon until no large clumps remain.
6. Stir in the black pepper, marjoram, allspice, thyme and cloves.
7. Simmer uncovered over low heat for 1 hour and 45 minutes, stirring thoroughly every 10 minutes and scraping the bottom each time.
8. Check the texture near the end; finished goetta should be so thick that a spoon dragged through it leaves a channel that closes only slowly.
9. Fish out and discard the bay leaves.
10. Taste and add salt and pepper until the mixture is well seasoned.
11. Pack the hot goetta into the lined loaf pans, pressing firmly to eliminate air pockets, and smooth the tops.
12. Cool 1 hour on the counter, then fold the plastic over and refrigerate at least 12 hours, until completely firm.
13. Lift a loaf out by the plastic and cut it into slices about 1/2 inch thick.
14. Heat the bacon drippings in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat until shimmering.
15. Lay in the slices without crowding and fry 7 to 8 minutes without touching them, until a dark, unbroken crust forms underneath.
16. Flip carefully with a thin metal spatula and fry 6 to 7 minutes on the second side.
17. Serve hot with maple syrup, ketchup or a smear of apple butter.