Sajji

Ingredients

• 1 whole chicken (about 1.3-1.5kg)
• 1/4 cup white vinegar
• 3 tbsp salt, for the brine
• water, enough to submerge the chicken
• 2 tbsp raw papaya, blended to a paste
• 2 tbsp coriander seeds
• 1 tbsp cumin seeds
• 1 tbsp carom seeds (ajwain)
• 1 tsp black peppercorns
• 4 green cardamom pods
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil or ghee
• 1 lemon, for serving
• 2 cups basmati rice, rinsed
• 1 onion, sliced
• 2 tbsp raisins
• 2 tbsp ghee or oil, for the rice
• 2 whole cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, and 2 green cardamom pods, for the rice
• Salt, to taste

Before you cook

• Pat the whole chicken dry, then spatchcock it by cutting out the backbone and pressing it flat for faster, more even cooking.
• Mix the vinegar, salt, and enough water to fully submerge the chicken in a large bowl or pot.
• Submerge the chicken in the brine, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, up to 3 hours for deeper flavor.
• Toast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, carom seeds, black peppercorns, and cardamom pods in a dry pan over medium heat for 2 minutes, until fragrant, then let them cool.
• Grind the toasted spices to a coarse powder in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.
• Peel and blend the raw papaya to a smooth paste.
• Remove the chicken from the brine and pat it completely dry with paper towels.

Steps

1. Rub the papaya paste all over the chicken, inside and out, and let it sit for 20 minutes to tenderize.
2. Rub the oil or ghee over the chicken, then coat it evenly with two-thirds of the ground spice mix, keeping the rest aside for serving.
3. Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), or prepare a grill for indirect medium-high heat.
4. Set the chicken on a rack in a roasting tray, breast side up.
5. Roast the chicken for 20 minutes at the high temperature to start crisping the skin.
6. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C (350°F).
7. Continue roasting the chicken for 45 to 50 minutes, basting with the pan juices every 15 minutes, until a thermometer in the thickest part of the thigh reads 74°C (165°F).
8. Transfer the chicken to a plate, tent it loosely with foil, and let it rest for 10 minutes.
9. Pour the pan drippings into a saucepan and skim off the excess fat, keeping both the fat and the drippings.
10. Heat the reserved fat or 2 tbsp ghee in a separate pot over medium heat.
11. Add the sliced onion to the pot and fry for 5 minutes, until golden.
12. Add the whole cloves, cinnamon stick, and cardamom pods to the pot and stir for 30 seconds.
13. Add the rinsed rice to the pot and stir to coat it in the fat and spices for 1 minute.
14. Pour in the reserved pan drippings topped up with water to make 3 cups of liquid, along with the raisins and a pinch of salt.
15. Bring the rice to a boil, then cover the pot and reduce the heat to low.
16. Cook the rice undisturbed for 15 minutes, then take it off the heat and let it sit covered for 5 minutes.
17. Fluff the rice with a fork.
18. Carve the rested chicken into pieces.
19. Sprinkle the reserved spice mix and a squeeze of lemon juice over the carved chicken.
20. Serve the chicken hot on top of or alongside the sajji rice.