Chettinad Chicken Curry

Ingredients

• 1kg bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, skin removed
• 1 tsp turmeric
• 1 tsp salt, for the marinade
• 2 tbsp thick yoghurt
• 3 tbsp sesame oil
• 2 large onions, finely sliced
• 2 tomatoes, chopped
• 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• 20 fresh curry leaves
• 1 tsp salt, for the curry
• 250ml hot water
• 3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tbsp coriander seeds, for the masala
• 1 tbsp fennel seeds, for the masala
• 1 tsp cumin seeds, for the masala
• 1 tsp black peppercorns, for the masala
• 6 dried Kashmiri chillies, for the masala
• 1 star anise, for the masala
• 5cm cinnamon stick, for the masala
• 4 cloves, for the masala
• 1 tsp kalpasi (stone flower), for the masala
• 4 tbsp grated coconut, for the masala

Before you cook

• Toss the chicken with the turmeric, first teaspoon of salt and yoghurt, and leave it to marinate for 30 minutes.
• Slice the onions finely and chop the tomatoes.
• Measure out all the whole spices for the masala into one bowl and keep the coconut separate.

Steps

1. Set a dry heavy pan over a medium-low heat and add the whole masala spices, including the kalpasi.
2. Roast the spices for 4 minutes, shaking the pan constantly, until the coriander seeds darken a shade and the fennel smells sweet.
3. Add the grated coconut and roast for 3 minutes more, until it is light brown, then tip everything onto a plate to cool.
4. Grind the cooled mixture to a fine powder, then blend it with 100ml of water to a thick paste.
5. Heat the sesame oil in a heavy casserole over a medium-high heat.
6. Add the sliced onions and curry leaves and fry for 12 minutes, stirring often, until the onions are properly browned and sweet. This is where the depth comes from, so do not rush it.
7. Stir in the ginger-garlic paste and cook for 2 minutes until the raw smell disappears.
8. Add the tomatoes and the second teaspoon of salt and cook for 6 minutes, mashing them down until the oil separates at the edges.
9. Stir in the ground masala paste and fry for 4 minutes, adding a splash of water if it catches.
10. Add the marinated chicken and turn the pieces over in the masala until every one is coated.
11. Fry the chicken uncovered for 6 minutes, turning occasionally, so the surfaces seal and take on colour.
12. Pour in the hot water, bring to a simmer, then cover and cook over a low heat for 25 minutes.
13. Uncover and check that the chicken is falling from the bone and the gravy clings thickly. Simmer uncovered for a few more minutes if it is too loose.
14. Take the pan off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and coriander, and rest the curry for 10 minutes before serving with rice or dosa.