Memelas Oaxaquenas

Ingredients

• 400 g masa harina, or 600 g fresh corn masa
• 550 ml warm water, if using masa harina
• 1 tsp fine salt, plus a pinch for the salsa
• 5 tbsp asiento, or lard
• 250 g refried black beans
• 6 dried chiles de arbol
• 2 dried pasilla oaxaqueno or ancho chillies
• 250 g tomatillos, husked
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• 200 g quesillo (Oaxaca string cheese)
• 1/2 white onion, finely chopped

Before you cook

• Mix the masa harina with the salt, then work in the warm water until you have a soft dough that takes a fingerprint cleanly without cracking.
• Cover the dough with a damp cloth and let it hydrate for 15 minutes.
• Pull the quesillo apart into fine threads and chop the onion.
• Husk and rinse the tomatillos.

Steps

1. Toast the chiles de arbol, the pasilla and the garlic on a dry comal over medium heat for 90 seconds, turning constantly, until they smell smoky and the chillies puff.
2. Drop the tomatillos onto the same comal and roast them for 8 minutes, turning, until blistered and slumping.
3. Blend the chillies, garlic and tomatillos with 60 ml water and a good pinch of salt into a coarse salsa.
4. Divide the masa into 8 pieces and roll each into a ball.
5. Press one ball between two sheets of plastic into an oval about 12 cm long and 8 mm thick.
6. Lay the oval on the hot comal and cook it for 2 minutes, until the underside is speckled brown.
7. Turn it and cook for 2 minutes more, until the second side is dry and set.
8. Lift it briefly and pinch a low rim right around the edge with your thumb and finger, working fast while it is still hot.
9. Return the memela to the comal rim side up and smear a teaspoon of asiento across the surface.
10. Spread a heaped tablespoon of refried beans over the asiento.
11. Spoon salsa over the beans, then pile on quesillo threads and chopped onion.
12. Leave it on the comal for 1 minute, until the cheese slumps, then serve it straight from the griddle.
13. Shape, cook and top the remaining masa balls the same way.