Squirrel Mandarin Fish

Ingredients

• 1 whole mandarin fish, sea bass or branzino, about 800g, scaled and gutted
• 1/2 tsp fine salt, for the fish
• 1/4 tsp ground white pepper
• 2 tsp Shaoxing wine
• 1 egg yolk
• 150g cornflour, for dredging
• 1.5 litres neutral oil, for deep frying
• 3 tbsp tomato puree
• 1 tbsp tomato ketchup
• 6 tbsp rice vinegar
• 4 tbsp caster sugar
• 120ml water
• 3/4 tsp fine salt, for the sauce
• 2 tsp cornflour mixed with 2 tbsp cold water
• 2 tbsp neutral oil, for the sauce
• 50g green peas
• 50g pine nuts, toasted

Before you cook

• Cut the head from the fish and set it aside, then run a knife down each side of the backbone to lift off two fillets, leaving the tail attached to one of them.
• Lay a fillet skin side down and cut diagonally down to the skin at 1.5cm intervals, then cut again at right angles to make a grid of squares that stay joined to the skin.
• Score the second fillet the same way.
• Rub the salt, white pepper, Shaoxing wine and egg yolk over both fillets and the head and leave them for ten minutes.
• Mix the tomato puree, ketchup, vinegar, sugar, water and salt together in a bowl.

Steps

1. Dredge the scored fillets in cornflour, opening every cut with your fingers so the powder reaches the base of each square.
2. Shake off the loose cornflour and dust the fish head as well.
3. Heat the frying oil in a deep wok to 190C.
4. Hold a fillet by the tail and lower it into the oil scored side down, holding the flesh open with a spider for the first fifteen seconds so the spines set.
5. Release the fillet and fry it for four to five minutes, until the points are crisp and deep gold.
6. Lift the fillet onto a rack to drain, then fry the second fillet the same way.
7. Fry the fish head for four minutes until golden and drain it with the fillets.
8. Arrange the head at one end of a long platter and lean the two fillets against it, scored side up, so they meet like a single fish.
9. Pour the frying oil out of the wok and wipe it clean.
10. Set the wok over medium heat with two tablespoons of fresh oil.
11. Pour in the tomato and vinegar mixture and bring it to a fast boil, stirring for one minute.
12. Stir in the cornflour slurry and cook for thirty seconds more, until the sauce turns clear and glossy.
13. Add the peas and take the sauce off the heat.
14. Pour the boiling sauce over the fish at the table so the crust crackles as it lands.
15. Scatter the toasted pine nuts over the top and serve at once.