Changsha Spicy Crayfish

Ingredients

• 2 kg live freshwater crayfish
• 4 tbsp groundnut oil
• 3 tbsp lard
• 40 g dried red chillies
• 1 tbsp whole Sichuan peppercorns
• 60 g fresh ginger
• 1 whole head garlic
• 2 cubes fermented red bean curd, with 1 tbsp of its liquid
• 2 tbsp Hunan chopped salted chilli (duojiao)
• 1 tbsp fermented black beans
• 2 star anise
• 1 small piece cassia bark
• 3 bay leaves
• 330 ml lager
• 2 tbsp light soy sauce
• 1 tbsp dark soy sauce
• 1 tbsp caster sugar
• 1 tsp fine salt
• 20 g fresh perilla leaves, or Thai basil
• 3 spring onions

Before you cook

• Tip the live crayfish into a sink of cold salted water and leave them for twenty minutes to purge.
• Scrub each crayfish with a stiff brush, paying attention to the underside of the tail and the legs.
• Twist the middle tail fin and pull it away slowly to draw out the dark gut thread.
• Snip off the pointed tip of the head with scissors and pull out the grey stomach sac behind it.
• Rinse the cleaned crayfish twice in fresh cold water and drain them well.
• Snip the dried chillies in half and shake out most of the seeds.
• Slice the ginger thinly and peel the whole head of garlic, leaving the cloves whole.
• Mash the fermented bean curd to a paste with its liquid.
• Shred the perilla leaves and slice the spring onions.

Steps

1. Heat a large wok or heavy casserole over a high flame and add the groundnut oil.
2. Fry the crayfish in two batches for three minutes each, until the shells turn scarlet and the edges catch, then lift them out.
3. Add the lard to the pan and let it melt.
4. Turn the heat to medium and add the dried chillies, Sichuan peppercorns, star anise, cassia bark and bay leaves.
5. Stir the spices for one minute, until the chillies darken slightly and the air turns pungent.
6. Add the ginger and whole garlic cloves and fry for another minute.
7. Stir in the mashed fermented bean curd, the chopped salted chilli and the black beans.
8. Cook this paste for two minutes, pressing it against the hot metal so the fat turns deep red.
9. Return all the crayfish to the pan and toss them hard so every shell is coated.
10. Pour in the beer and let it foam up and subside.
11. Add both soy sauces, the sugar and the salt, then top up with just enough hot water to almost cover the crayfish.
12. Bring it to a boil, cover, and braise over medium heat for twelve minutes.
13. Take off the lid and boil hard for six to eight minutes, tossing often, until the sauce has reduced to a thick, glossy coating.
14. Throw in the perilla and spring onions and toss twice.
15. Tip everything into a big bowl and serve with beer, plastic gloves and a bowl for the shells.